Adventures of Lydia and Joe

May 22 and 23, 2013 Back to Joe’s Roots

We picked up our car in Leon without problem. We had two days until we needed to be in Artajona and decided to go to Portugalete, near Bilbao. I called the Gran Hotel Puente Colgante where Joe has stayed before and they had availability so we were set. Joe was in hog heaven explaining every valley and tower and mining operation along the way. It is beautiful countryside, lots of green everywhere and, of course, a few poppies. In the two days, we explored many little towns; the mining museum, many Banales origins. We did not hear from Goio, so I guess he was too busy with his students to see us. Over the river that flows through Bilbao and past Portugalete, there is a very interesting structure, the Puente Colgante. It looks like it was created by Eiffel as it is a huge bridge that looks like an erector set. Suspended below is a ferry that transports people and cars across the river. It cost 35 cents one way to cross as a pedestrian. The other option is to get into a boat and cross. However, there has been a lot of rain and the river was raging past us. The boat bobbed on the waves and didn’t look very safe although I’m sure it was. We crossed over to the other side on the suspended ferry a couple of times and went to dinner there once to a place called Old Heidelburg or something like that. I thought we would get some German food, for a change. But no, it served the same 3 course Spanish meal as everywhere else. They did have good beer though!
The 23rd was my mom’s 100th birthday so we went to the cathedral and lit a candle for her. We intended to have a good dinner and toast her memory, but the restaurant we chose was not very good at all. I got a little weepy, poor Joe!
We were still living out of our backpacks so wardrobe choices were very limited. I was looking forward to my other stuff at Jeru’s house and getting rid of our Camino stuff. We plan to ship a lot of things home. And so passed our two free days.

May 24, 2013 Artajona Reunion

We weren’t sure whether we were supposed to be in Artajona before 3 pm (my understanding) or after 3 (Joe’s understanding) because Jeru had some kind of appointment in Madrid. We were able to get ahold of both Miguel and Jeru to clarify what was going on. It seemed like arrival around 3 was ok. So we headed toward the Paradore at Olite as we hadn’t been there in years and we both remembered it as a lovely place to go. While it is very nice, it is not as polished as it once was. The glamour of the serving girls in Catalan costumes was a thing of the past. We had a good late lunch, but nothing outstanding. We arrived in Artajona a little later than we might have because I had to keep taking photos of poppies. They aren’t as numerous as in previous years but they are so very beautiful.
Jeru was standing on her front steps to greet us. Shortly after, Sara arrived with her two children and Mario came down from his room. He works at night so he was just waking up. Loly came over from next door with some freshly made sweet treats. Then Fernando came by and soon Miguel and Aracelli arrived. They were all so warm and welcoming. We were to eat supper at Jeru and Juan Mari’s home, then sleep next door at Miguel’s apartment. Jeru was leaving at 6 the next morning to see El Rey Lion (The Lion King) in Madrid and wouldn’t be back until 2 or 3 Sunday morning. She was very excited about it. She had prepared lots of white asparagus for me as well as all the makings for ensalada mixta, plus fried fish, pimientos, and some kind of meat. It is asparagus season and it is so delicious. Much better than the canned stuff we get at home. She also washed our clothes (Yeah! Clean clothes, real shoes! ) And so time for sleep.

May 20th: An easy day to summarize because I did NOTHING all day! Joe wanted to walk so he took off on the Camino and was gone most of the day. I napped and washed a few things and napped some more. My heels continue to hurt, sometimes only a little and sometimes they feel like they are on fire. I hoped this rest would help. We heard that there was a Pilgrim Mass and blessing where the sisters sing at the Santa Maria Church each evening at 7:30 so we trekked over there. There were sisters and they did sing, but only with the rest of the congregation except at the end. During the Pilgrim Blessing the three nuns sang hymns while one played the guitar. I think 3/4 of the congregation were pilgrims. As the priest blessed each person, a nun handed each one a paper star as a remembrance. Joe and I went up together for our blessing. Even though this phase of the Camino is over for us, we will need that blessing in our pilgrimage of life. On the way home we found a little restaurant and had the usual pilgrim menu. Then back to Zoila for a good rest.

May 21, 2013 New Horizons – Leon to Portugalete

We took the bus to Leon. It was a long ride and we got to see the rest of the meseta. I would like to have stayed in Sahagun and some other towns in this stretch, but we were finished in Carrion and we knew it. Hopefully, there will be a next time, and we will see many of the towns and sights I’ve heard about. But for now, it was time to let the Camino go and move on. Once we got to the bus station, we did don our packs and get out our walking sticks as it was about 2 km to the Parador. We made a reservation for dinner and went to the bar for some food. And we had a feast! Manchego cheese with membrillo (a specialty of Leon), ensalada mixta, and a chicken sandwich for Joe. It was yummy! Then we went out to explore. I really wanted to see the Cathedral. Also, we don’t have anything but pilgrim gear to wear and I didn’t want to go to dinner in my boots or in flip-flops, so I looked for a shoe store and found several along the way. Most of them don’t carry my size, 41. In fact most of them only go to 39. And, shoes are very expensive. 45-80 Euros was about average. I finally found a store that carried a size 40 ballet flat for 30Euros, so I squeezed into them and bought them. I felt like Cinderella’s ugly sister, but for some reason having nice shoes was important to me. We got to the Cathedral after a long walk but it was closed up tight. So we found a taxi to take us back to the Parador. We barely got there in time to freshen up. I squeezed back into those shoes and did feel a little more appropriately dressed. One thing I don’t understand about Spain is their eating times. There’s desayuno, almuerzo, cena, mirienda, and comida. They take place at approximately 7 am, 11 am, 3 pm, 6 pm, and 10 pm. They go to bed on a full stomach which doesn’t seem healthy to me. We are usually able to have dinner earlier, but not in a proper restaurant. Our dinner at the Parador was at 9 pm and by the time we finished the last of the wine, we were about asleep at the table.
We have not heard from Goio and Joe thinks we probably won’t, so we’re going to Portugalete in the morning. I made a reservation at the Gran Hotel Puente Colgante where Joe has stayed before. I asked for a room overlooking the river and we got an internet special for 68 euros, so we’ll see what it looks like.

May 18th: We took the 1:30 bus to Fromista along with our new friends except wonder woman Janet who opted to walk 60 km. in 2 days. Buying the ticket was interesting there was an old woman who took it upon herself to tell those of us waiting in line whose turn it was to buy their ticket. She shoved a girl in front of me. The girl wasn’t in a hurry but this old hag acted like a general. We all got on the bus. We are staying at the Hotel San Martin. The girls booked a triple room at the hotel but were concerned about the price. So Joe went out exploring and in a few minutes he returned after finding a 3 bedroom Casa Rural apartment for less than the hotel. We wanted our own bathroom and opted to stay at the hotel. The girls took the apartment. Because it was Saturday night, we wanted to go to Mass, so we went to the 8 pm Mass and were happily surprised with a Pilgrim Blessing after Mass. Then we got a bite to eat in our way home.

May 17, 2013 New Sights, New Experiences, New Thoughts

May 17th: We decided to stay in Burgos another day. The girls invited me to go with them to Santo Domingo de Silos to hear the monks sing Vespers. These are the same monks who made a chant CD a few years ago that was very popular. Joe gave his blessing. So I got on the Internet to rent the car. No cars available at Hertz. Then we try Avis. Same result-no available cars. We ask the woman at the desk who has been very helpful on other occasions and she said,”Let me call Avis, I know somebody there.” and within 10 minutes she has rented the car and arranged for Avis to bring it to the hotel at 11am. So Joe and I take off to see the Cathedral and to buy a bus ticket for the next day. We get back at about 2 minutes after 11 and the car is at the hotel. So we women take off for the day. First we go to Lerma where Linda and Janet have been told of a special restaurant that specializes in roasted suckling lamb cooked in a huge oven. It sounds rather cruel to me but I like lamb so … I’m game. We have about 45 minutes until the restaurant opens so we each take off on our own to explore the area. I thought the big building on the square was the ayuntamiento ( government building) and was surprised to learn that it was the Parador of Lerma. I forgot that there was a Parador there. I went in to look around. It was beautiful with lots of wood, carpets, and rich fabrics like most of the Paradores we’ve seen. Then we all met for lunch. 3 of us shared the roasted baby lamb and I hate to admit that it was delicious! We also shared an enormous ensalada mixta and a pitcher of wine. Yummy! After lunch we drove to Santo Domingo de Silos for Vespers. Again we were early and went exploring. I walked with Janet and Linda. I was curious about their relationship but didn’t know how to broach the subject or if I even should. So I just jumped right in. I told Janet, “You’re the first gay couple I’ve known. ” She said, “Well, what do you think?” I thought a minute and said, “Very refreshing.” then I said,”You two are going to be my gold standard for gay couples.” The respect they show each other, the dedication they must have to be together for 32 years, the easy way they interact and complement each other is as good or better than many married couples I know. They are legally married now but only because of a legal loophole. Why shouldn’t they have a legal civil marriage? I never thought I’d rethink my firmly held belief! As Msgr. would say, I’m pondering these thoughts. The time for Vespers came and the singing was very peaceful and prayerful. But I think they need Tony to whip them into shape! We drove back to Burgos with Linda driving and Janet navigating. Trying to find where to return the car was a nightmare but eventually they figured it out. I had a bottle of wine and Joe went out to get some tapas – crocettas, manchego, and olives. We all dug into the feast right in the lobby. Then Susan, Linda, and Janet went out for more wine. We turned in. It was a great day.

May 19, 2013 The Meseta, Suckling Lamb, and Pumpkin Soup

We left Fromista separately, Joe walking and me by taxi. We sent our packs ahead to Real Monasterio San Zoilo, not a Paradore but almost. I bade a final farewell to Susan and au revoir to Linda who we may see again in California. Joe was to walk the first 10 km to Villarmentero de Campos where I would meet him to walk the 11 or so km to Carrion de Los Condes. The smallest villages seem to have the longest names! I waited for Joe in the open air bar next to the albergue and spent the time writing and conversing with other pilgrims. I met a family from Ireland, parents and two adult daughters, and I heard conversations in several languages. This albergue has the usual communal rooms for sleeping but, in addition, they rent tipis in the summer. It’s very weird to see American tipis in the back of a Spanish albergue! Joe arrived about noon with a German girl named Madalena whom he met on the trail. He says she is quite learned in economics and wished he could talk to her some more. But she wanted to continue walking towards Carrion. So we sent her off with a “Buen Camino!” After a bocadillo of cheese and ham for Joe, we set out to walk on the meseta. I had heard horror stories and love stories about the Meseta. It is a series of vast plateaus between Burgos and Leon with little variation in topography and few towns or facilities. As a woman my main concern was “What if I have to go to the bathroom?” Before our first time on the Camino, I even bought a little trowel. This time I bought a funnel-like contraption called “Go Girl”. (Use your imagination.) I am happy to report that I have used neither! I had heard that the Meseta could be covered with poppies in the Spring and I was disappointed that it was not. The taxi driver told me that this is a bad year for poppies. I am delighted to tell you that the Meseta is gorgeous in the Spring. It is covered with a bright green grain crop interrupted by an occasional newly plowed earthen field or a field of glowing yellow-flowered canola plants. The grass ripples in the wind like waves on the sea. The clouds are breathtaking with some fluffy white and some billowing grey and some threatening imminent rain. The air is fresh and clean. The gravel path is well marked and well maintained. While there are many pilgrims on the Camino right now, we often had times when no one else was in sight. Then all of a sudden there would be two or three groups pass us and some cyclists whiz by. When we finally got to Carrion we had to walk an extra kilometer to our hotel San Zoilo. It is well worth the agonizing extra steps down to the river and over a stone bridge. I was on my last legs so Joe pushed on to find the hotel. He raised his walking poles in a victory gesture and we walked into this magnificent old structure. We made a reservation for dinner and were given the key to our room which is attached to a large shell key fob Our room faces a huge grassy courtyard with a fountain topped by a statue in the center. The room is very spacious with beamed ceilings, wood floors and shuttered window. I collapsed into bed for a rest to ease my aching feet. Later I took the longest, hottest shower I’ve had in a long time and emerge feeling almost human. I dressed for this fancy restaurant in my finest clean shirt and sweats, topped by my ratty cashmere sweater and accessorized with flip-flops. Hey, it’s all I have! The dinner is amazing. Their specialty is suckling lamb (sorry, Claire) baked in an open fire oven until the outside is crispy and the meat almost melts in your mouth. It is accompanied by a simple salad with a tangy vinaigrette dressing and crunchy freshly baked bread. I can’t resist ordering the pumpkin soup. The garnish looks like a flower with a piece of Serrano ham as the flower, a stem of something green and herby and toasted croutons at the bottom. What a lovely presentation. We savor every bit. When the lamb arrives, Joe is in gastronomy heaven. He pronounced it as the best lamb he has ever eaten. We dipped our bread in the drippings and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves! Joe ordered an amazing bottle of crianza reserve Spanish red wine and we finished that to the last drop, too. Then the postre— oh my! Joe ordered ice cream, big surprise, and I ordered something called rellenos with apple flavored sorbet. What arrived for me were two eclairs, one stuffed with vanilla cream and the other with fudgey chocolate accompanied by a scoop of delicious pale green sorbet which was decorated with a spun sugar creation and garnished with assorted tiny glazed berries on a mint leaf. Of course I couldn’t eat it all, but what a treat for the eyes as well as the tummy! Then off to a good sleep. By the way, we’re staying tomorrow night, too. This place is wonderful!

May 15, 2013 Ages and Atapuerca

We put our plan into practice and all goes well. The albergue/pension is run by the sweetest woman who welcomes us with a hug and a cup of cafe con leche. We get settled and go exploring. Ages is the quintessential Camino town. It has a tiny old church with a stork nesting on the belfry, a tiny cafe/grocery/gift store artfully watched over by a beatnik looking woman named Amapulla who is attired in flowery pants that reflect her name, lots of dark eye make-up on her pale smiley face, and topped off with a beret. When I told her that I love amapullas, the European red poppy, she ushers us over to an alcove in the store and shows us some paintings her son has done. He is an architect and has done a lot of work in the village to restore and maintain it. We return to our pensione to find that a tour is being offered to the nearby archeological site where the oldest species of early man has recently been discovered. We all jump at the opportunity. An earnest young archeologist very skilled in English and Spanish conducts the tour at the dig site. We all have to wear hard hats lest we get bonked on the head by a rock. Her information is fascinating but a storm is coming and it’s getting very cold. I can hardly wait for her to put away the skulls and finish her stories of cannibal ancestors so we can get back on the bus! We return for a bland supper of salad and spaghetti prepared and served by a curmudgeon of a host who says no to everything I request including stamping my credential. I just smile and push the booklet towards him a couple of times and he not only stamps and dates it, he carefully writes “Buen Camino”. We head upstairs to our room which is comfortable but COLD. We can only find one blanket in the room which means we have to bother our grumpy friend again with another request. Susan is bedding down in the attic so she needs another blanket, too. He grudgingly comes upstairs and gets us some blankets from a locked closet. Then he comes in our room to check the closet for that reclusive blanket. Of course he finds one and gives us that look that transcends words. These small hostels all have shiny new radiators which they don’t seem to ever use! But with our blankets we have a cosy warm sleep.

May 14, 2013 Lessons in Humility and Acceptance

I am sadly having to admit that my capabilities are not what they used to be. “The spirit is willing but the flesh is weak” was never truer. Today’s plan is to get to Belorado, the Hotel Jacobeo. It’s only 10.1 km., two Rose Bowls. We get started a bit late, as usual, and I poop out, as usual. But this time, I take a taxi to the hotel and Joe continues walking. At least I made one Rose Bowl! Joe is a happy camper when he arrives in Belarado. We go to the tourist information office and find several maps and interesting documents about the whole region of Castilla y Leon. We’re talking to the attendant about bus schedules when we are joined by another American, Janet, who is to become a good friend over the next few days. She was at the Santa Barbara gathering and received her shell along with her partner, Linda. She invited us to join her for dinner at their albergue but we have to rush over there to make a reservation. The hositaliero graciously accepts our request so we return to our hotel for a rest. At dinner we meet Linda Richter and their two other friends, Susan and Anundi from Australia. Anundi has seriously strained her knees and shins as well as her heels and can barely walk. Linda is also having problems, so they are having to rethink their plans. After a good dinner (roast chicken, salad, rice pudding, and some good Rioja wine) we decide we will take the bus with Susan to San Juan de Ortega, see the sights, then walk or taxi to Ages. Linda and Anundi would go to Burgos and Janet would walk to Ages to the Albergue/Hostal San Rafael. All necessary decisions made , we return to our hotel for a good sleep. I have such good intentions of writing, but either we don’t have good wifi or it’s too late or I’m too tired. This night it was all three!